Food · Jimmy talks

Jimmy talks the ScanPan

“Product Reviews” — that’s what it says on the door to my new office here at the C&C Complex, an office to which I was relegated after failing to turn in a single post for three weeks. Champ was given my old job. After he’s finished lapping up all the scotch I was given for Christmas, he’s somehow expected to review restaurants. I think I might be supposed to train him, but to hell with that — he can’t even type. My plan is simply to wait until he, too, gets demoted, and in the meantime review all the products I’m assigned promptly and bitterly.

First up, the ScanPan! Unfortunately, this is a product about which it is impossible to be bitter. The eleven inch saute pan is hands-down the best pan I’ve ever used. Not only is it so nonstick that everything you put in it slips and slides like a drunk eighty-pound dog on black ice (ladder-climbing mutt) but, unlike most nonstick pans, you can use metal on it. Which for me, when I’m flipping eggs, is crucial (I hate plastic spatulas). With just a little butter, an egg over-easy glides so smoothly I’ve even been tempted to try the restaurant flip. The thought of yolk oozing into the cracks of our electric stove has held me back, of course; but when that dog gets fired and my scotch is returned, I imagine I’ll probably give it a go. The pan really is perfect for eggs.

Fish, too: Robin wrote a post a while back about the way I used a knife to sort of squeegee off (or rather out) all excess liquid from the skin to ensure its crisping in the pan (somebody named Keller does it too). That method, I’m almost sad to say, is now obsolete. Using the ScanPan the other night, all I had to do to my salmon was saute it skin-side down in olive oil for four minutes (applying pressure here and there to make sure the skin crisped evenly) before covering it for another three minutes so the rest of the filet would steam to medium-rare. That was it. The skin, the fish, was perfect. (Admittedly, this new method might also work with a lesser pan: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Pan-Seared-Salmon-on-Baby-Arugula-242445; I’d never tried it before the ScanPan was sent to us, and I don’t have endless salmon filets to test our other cookware. I doubt it would come out as well, though. At no point, even when I first set down the filet in the crackling-hot pan, did the fish stick: I could have flipped it whenever I wanted; hell, I could’ve set up little pins and bowled with it. And if I’m starting to sound like a salesman here, that’s because I’ve really been sold, and there’s no reason not to celebrate an excellent product. I just wish it were a scotch.)

[Editor’s Note: To win a ScanPan of your own, click here.]

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14 thoughts on “Jimmy talks the ScanPan

  1. Oooh, I am very tempted to add a scanpan to my wedding registry…sounds so good! I am nervous about nonstick generally, but SLT claims this one is safe…

  2. You have to love a good saute pan. I’ve always had a bit of an aversion to non stick (as i’m also a fan of metal tools), but if it really does work that well, it might be something to check out.

    I really love the remark “somebody named Keller does that too.” If it is now obsolete someone should let him know about the ScanPan.

  3. Oh one more thing…I don’t know if you saw that I am having a Meyer lemon round-up, but I would love to post a link to your Shitake Mushrooms with Young Pecorino recipe, if that would be alright. Let me know what you think, and if you have any other lemon recipes – it won’t be posted for another week or so. Thanks!

  4. Hi there – I am happy to discover your blog, actually by way of SCANPAN. I just received an awesome 5 pc. cookware set, and am blown away by the quality. I just posted a side dish on Jan 10th, and I used my Scanpan cookware, but I did not write about the cookware just yet. I have a post on petrale sole and braised bok choy I will be posting in the next day or two, that shows more of the cookware. Love it! Ok, well, nice to meet you and I look forward to exploring your blog!
    Lori Lynn

  5. Maggie, Claire, Hayley: Yeah, if you guys are really considering it, I think you should make the investment. Robin and I were just talking yesterday about how we would never have thought to spend that kind of money on a pan but that now if we lost our ScanPan or something we would definitely buy another. Re the safety issue, with metal and all, this is what it says on their website:

    “Scanpan is the first producer of nonstick cookware that is certified PFOA free, so it’s safe for you and the earth. The unique cooking surface is safe for metal utensils and allows for browning, searing and deglazing—things you can’t do with traditional nonstick. It requires little to no fat for cooking, so you can enjoy a healthy meal.

    The Green Tek nonstick surface is created by firing a ceramic-titanium compound into the pan. A specially formulated nonstick compound is then embedded in the surface. Its pressure cast aluminum construction is denser than most aluminum cookware, allowing for superior heat retention and quick distribution for reduced energy use.”

    All the practical claims have proven true, so I’m just trusting them on the health issue.

    therealchiffonade: Funny you should mention cast iron. Robin and I were cooking scallops the other day and we tested our ScanPan against a cast iron, and the ScanPan won easily: better searing, less smoke.

    Lori Lynn: Welcome! We’re looking forward to your post!

  6. I recently bought some scanpans, and have had some trouble with leaky rivets on the sauce pans. I returned the first set, but my second set leaks too–just a slow drip from the rivets whenever the pot is filled up that far. So, I wanted to ask: have you run into the same problem?

  7. Our rivets are pristine, thank you very much.

    Seriously, they are. We only have the one saute pan, though. I’ll post when we get more.

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