Jimmy yells DOWN WITH ZAGAT!

Robin and I had suspected for some time that Zagat food ratings are meaningless, and this weekend, on Sunday, after a glorious dinner in Manhattan with the lovely Anita from Married…with Dinner, we got proof. Resto, in Gramercy Park, is rated a twenty. A twenty! A twenty means that when Frank Bruni selected Resto as one of his favorite restaurants of 2007, he was off by literally over a thousand spots. A twenty means there isn’t a Japanese restaurant in the city whose California roll isn’t tastier than maple- and lime-glazed pork belly, and deviled eggs served over deep fried pork jowls.

Photo by Alexandra Solmssen

A twenty means you’d be better off grabbing a hot dog from the greasy racks of either Hot Dog King or Gray’s Papaya than you would being served short ribs by the charming, laid back waiters at Resto — beer-braised short ribs, that is, served over french fries with apple conserves: an entrée so in-your-face tasty and decadent you’d think its presence on the menu would preclude such refined desserts as almond financier with the perfect amount of thyme, but no! A twenty means talented chefs and designers, not to mention top notch beer and wine lists and excellent cocktails, don’t mean anything. A twenty means DOWN WITH ZAGAT!