There’s something on my mind: I’ve found (in real-life and through comments) that a lot of people are self-prescribed haters of certain foods—and I just don’t get it. Putting foods on a “hate to eat” list is so limiting. Think of all the deliciousness that you may be keeping from yourself! I’ve had many experiences when I tried a food that I disliked, one that was prepared by a fabulous cook or chef, and promptly threw it into the category of favorite foods. Beets, poached eggs, pate, fennel—they were all on my dislike list at one point or another and, even though I still rarely eat beets (by choice) and pate (by crying myself to sleep some nights because I can’t afford to eat pate), they don’t sit on a list anymore. I don’t have the list anymore; set fire to it a while ago. It’s very freeing.
Olives were on that list right up until the burning of it. I never liked olives; no, I hated olives. Olives aren’t an odd thing to dislike, Harold McGee calls the olive fruit “highly unpalatable” and notes that we really only like to eat them when cured. But I didn’t want to eat them at all. Didn’t want them near my vodka. Didn’t want to smell them as I passed by the olive bar at the market. I also, however, hadn’t tried one in years. Not a smart move for a supposed “foodie.”
Well, I’m happy to say that I tried olives and liked them. I did it out of desperation. I was in a slump this winter and needed a new and exciting recipe. I found one in Saveur magazine, a recipe for sea bass baked in parchment with keilbasa, olives, and fennel. It wasn’t my favorite recipe, but the best part about it was the olives. Baked in the oven until soft and oozing their brine, olives are meltingly, disarmingly delicious. I’m still not a fan of eating olives out of hand, except maybe for nicoise, but I love to cook with olives.
This in particular is my newest favorite olive recipe. You roast a cut-up chicken with lots of rosemary, thyme, and pancetta, until golden brown, then throw in some black olives and roast until the olives are tender, the chicken browned, and the pancetta crispy. Because you are using olives, which have such an intense, briny taste, you can go crazy with the herbs. Don’t hold back on the rosemary or thyme—and use fresh. The sweetly woody aroma of the herbs are a perfect match for olives; and the roasted garlic is a perfect match for anything. We had this on top of pureed cauliflower with a clove of the roasted garlic mashed up into the puree, and it was just heaven. With olives.
Chicken with Pancetta and Olives
adapted from Gourmet, January 2009
- 1 chicken (about 3 pounds), backbones cut out and each chicken cut into 8 pieces
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoons chopped thyme
- 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary
- scant 1 tablespoon kosher salt
- pinch hot red-pepper flakes
- 4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved if large
- 4 (1/4-inch-thick) slices pancetta, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 12 oil-cured black olives
- 1/4 cup water
- 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets
- 2 tablespoons butter
- more water, to thin, if needed
Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in middle. Toss chicken with oil, thyme, rosemary, sea salt, red-pepper flakes, and 1 teaspoon pepper, rubbing mixture into chicken.
Arrange chicken, skin side up, in 1 layer in a 17-by 11-inch 4-sided sheet pan. Scatter garlic and pancetta on top and roast until chicken begins to brown, about 20 minutes. Drizzle wine over chicken and roast 8 minutes more. Scatter olives over chicken and roast until skin is golden brown and chicken is cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes more. Let stand 10 minutes.
In a medium saucepan, add 1/4 cup water and cauliflower. Cover and cook over medium heat until cauliflower is very tender. Add butter and one small (or one half large) clove of the roasted garlic and puree with a stick blender or in a stand blender until very smooth.
Serve chicken on top of a mound of cauliflower.