A while back, when I decided not to be religious, I realized superstitions wouldn’t jibe with my newfound atheism. I had, afterall, never quite believed in throwing salt over your shoulder (it made such a mess) or not letting a black cat cross your path (I had one named Midnight); it had all felt very half-hearted. Nonetheless, there are a few superstitions that stuck with me; I’ll always take a sip after a cheers, I tend to knock on wood—and I eat black-eyed peas for the New Year.
Not quite on the New Year however; I can’t seem to get myself to eat beans on a day that I associate with my last holiday calorie-filled hurrah. I’ll buy the peas for New Years, sometimes with an honest intent to make them, but never do, giving in to roast chicken and potatoes, or braised pork. I’m weak-willed.
Though when New Year’s Day is over and the diet begins, black-eyed peas help me with the transition. They remind me that fat- and carbo-loading isn’t the only way towards delicious. Especially this recipe, coming from Daniel Boulud, which pairs the earthy peas with (the herb I now consider its true love) dried oregano. Bacon is added because, come on, it’s a transition to health—not a nosedive. And finally, most importantly, a good dose of hot sauce keeps things exciting. Without that, you’re just full of beans.
Southern-style Black-eyed Peas with Bacon
makes 4 servings
- 1 pound dried black-eyed peas
- 5 ounces slab bacon, cut into cubes
- 2 red onions, peeled and sliced
- 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
- 1 tablespoon dried oregano
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt
- 2 teaspoons Tabasco or other hot sauce
- Fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, for garnish
The day before you plan to serve this dish, put the peas in a bowl, cover with water by at least 2 inches, and refrigerate. The next day, drain well before using.
Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 275ºF.
Place the bacon in a small cast-iron pot of Dutch oven over medium-high heat and cook until it renders its fat, about 5 minutes.
Add the onions, garlic, oregano, and black pepper and cook, stirring, for 8 minutes. Add the drained peas, bay leaves, salt, and 6 cups water. Bring to a simmer, cover, and transfer to the oven.
Braise until the peas are tender, about 1 hour 15 minutes*. Stir in the Tabasco, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve.
*For my taste, it was closer to an hour and forty-five minutes.